Canadian Food Culture Dismissed Along with Chatto
Mon, May 10, 2010
There is no more fundamental component of culture than food and drink. As Brillat Savarin wrote, “The fate of nations depends upon how they eat.” A starving nation is known as a failed state.
These are dark days here in Canada. Food sections have been radically down-sized. People who merely eat have become self-proclaimed experts. Food writing is added to magazines and newspapers almost as an afterthought. The most stunningly–stupid nail in the coffin was driven in last week in Toronto. With the dismissal of James Chatto from Toronto Life it is clear that this particular publication has slipped into the illusion that ‘long format’ food writing is of no value and years of experience count for little or nothing. James Chatto’s contribution to the food life of Canada has been immense. His book, The Man Who Ate Toronto, is the history of that city’s restaurant community. His constant monitoring of the food scene there has made him the most respected food journalist in the region – perhaps even in Canada – and a real inspiration for young chefs to join the gastro-scene.
As one of the judges for the Le Cordon Bleu World Food Media Awards, let me assure you that Canada is one of the few nations on earth where such food communication – wise, balanced, insightful reporting – is dismissed so callously. Perhaps because, for centuries, food has been so abundant here that it is taken for granted. We have so much that we simply have no perceived need to write or communicate about it unless it’s a sound bite or promotional piece.
As Dr. Barbara Santich, the co-founder of the Australian Symposium on Gastronomy writes, “As food is to wine, so is language to gastronomy… Language is a means of anticipating, prolonging, repeating, intensifying the gastronomic experience – and also an invitation to others to share it.”
Over the years I’ve come to believe that when one door slams closed, another one opens. For James, he’ll be working on his next book, but for the restaurant community in Toronto and environs it may be a long time before someone of his ilk surfaces to nurture the talent and ingredients that we all know are part of our collective heritage.
Written by Anita Stewart. The founding member of Cuisine Canada, Stewart holds a Master of Arts (Gastronomy) from the University of Adelaide / Le Cordon Bleu, is a recent recipient of the Ontario Hostelry Institute’s Gold Award (Educator) and an Honourary Lifetime Member of the Canadian Culinary Federation of Chefs and Cooks (CCFCC).
Photo by Quinn Dombrowski. Published under a Creative Commons License.
Tags: Canadian food culture, food critic, James Chatto, Toronto Life
Well said Anita. Toronto Life has done themselves a grave disservice. Hopefully James will be picked up by another publication that will be more deserving of his culinary expertise.
thanks for writing this, Anita!
Anita – I echo the other comments – James is a contributor not only to the Toronto food scene but is a significant unifier of Canadian cuisine through his efforts with Gold Medal Plates. Crossing the country and being part of the Gold Medal plates process brings us all closer together as Canadian chefs, knowing that there is a common voice, or common critical voice, that levels the playing field for all culinarians. Last year, while in Toronto for the Slow Food national meeting, I brazenly went up to James at the reception prior to the Slow Food Banquetto at Hart House and reintroduced myself as a Gold Medal Plates competitor from Eastern Canada (I came in second the year before). He was very gracious and professed to remember me and my dish in Halifax. I in turn was happy that I could go up to him in Toronto and be greeted with a friendly demeanour and respect for my cuisine. No doubt he will find a place worthy of his professionalism.
A huge loss for all of us. Thanks Anita. James will undoubtedly be on to better things.
Agree wholeheartedly.
James Chatto has been educating me about food and restaurants since I was a teenager flying on my mother’s passes on Air Canada. His food articles were articulate, humourous, and educational. I’ve always enjoyed learning from him.
Too bad Toronto Life has become so “ironic” and “fast paced” that it isn’t able to accommodate a writer many of us enjoy in an evening’s respite in front of a fire, in bed, or in a tub.
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I’m disappointed you feel this way. Chatto is not the only food writer in this country. Far from it, and moreover, his reach barely extends beyond Toronto. I’d never heard of him until I moved to this city, and since then, have managed to immerse myself in our food culture just fine without reading him in Toronto Life. Or at all.
I’m sorry he’s been fired, but Toronto Life isn’t his only outlet (propping up the LCBO corporate monopoly being just one example – now that’s a publication that does a disservice to our precious food culture). Plus, the magazine isn’t getting rid of food writing, just one particular writer. Nothing so terrible with making room for new voices.
to imply that our food culture and writing is so dependent on one person does a disservice to everyone else in this country who’s working so hard in this arena.
Yes, magazines and newspapers are shrinking their food coverage, but other things, like websites, have arisen to take their place. And just look at the number of Canadian food books that have come out in the last few years (and I don’t see Chatto’s name among them). The food media scene is worth discussing and fighting for, but the injured tone and reflexive “protecting one’s own” that’s come up over Chatto’s dismissal smells of sour grapes to me.
I have always found James to provide a well balanced approach to food writing. Moreover, James has class.
I am sure there are many opportunities that will arise out of this.
I would like to add my thanks to you, Anita, for writing this. James’ “The Man Who Ate Toronto” is one of the most important cultural history books of the city. He continued his worthy insights and faithful documentation in Toronto Life. It was the driver behind my former subscription.
Thank you, Anita, for expressing our sentiments.
Thanks Anita
James is one of a kind.
He is the only food writer respected by the restaurant community.