Gold Medal Winner for Specialty Interest Category at the Canadian Culinary Book Awards

Beyond The Great Wall: Recipes and Travels in the Other China
Written by Jeffrey Alford and Naomi Duguid (Random House Canada, 2008)
Review by Julia Aitken

In show biz, a “triple threat” means a performer who excels not only at singing and dancing but acting, too. If the cookbook world had a dictionary and you looked up “triple threat,” the definition would no doubt simply read “Jeffrey Alford and Naomi Duguid.” The married couple, renowned for their award-winning, coffee-table-style tomes (among their previous works are Hot Sour Salty Sweet, about the food of the Mekong Delta, and Mangoes & Curry Leaves, chronicling Indian cuisine) can indeed do it all. They write well, are professional photographers and, what’s more, their recipes work.

So it should come as no surprise that Alford and Duguid’s latest book, Beyond The Great Wall: Recipes and Travels in the Other China (Random House Canada), garnered gold in the Special Interest Food and Beverage Book category of the Canadian Culinary Book Awards last November.

Beyond the Great Wall is a stunning book that will please armchair travelers and adventurous cooks alike. The authors whisk the reader along on a whirlwind tour of the little-known regions of China that lie to the west and north of that vast nation.

One surprise in a book that tackles such an undocumented part of the world, is that few, if any, of the recipes require an major expedition to source unfamiliar ingredients followed by a entire day stuck in the kitchen. Many, like Ginger and Carrot Stir-Fry from the southern province of Guizhou, or Laghman Sauce for Noodles from Xinjiang in the north, are quick and easy enough to tackle for a weeknight supper.

But there’s more to this book than pretty pictures and must-make recipes. Personal essays by Alford and Duguid document their journey through China, describing adventures as wide-ranging as a hair-raising motorbike accident in northwestern China, to a much more restful-sounding pony ride and picnic in the grasslands on the border of Qinghai and Gansu provinces. The authors also reminisce about earlier visits to China to compare and contrast how the rapidly developing country has changed.

An informative introduction provides a crash course in China 101, describing its geography and the ethnic peoples who live in the regions covered by the book.  A great glossary is an unsurprising but essential addition.

Best of all, is an afterword listing suggested itineraries to areas of China visited by the authors. These tantalizing suggestions are sure to whet the appetites of intrepid readers tempted to desert that armchair and strike out on their own.

Gold Medal Winner for Cookbook Category at the 2009 Canadian Culinary Book Awards

Practical Gourmet | Small Plates for Sharing
Edited by Laurie Stempfle (Company’s Coming Publishing Limited, 2008)
Review written by Margaret Demerson

Entertaining can be fun, but at times it can also be a challenge. Maybe you’re looking for a recipe for Creme Fraiche. Wondering about Indonesian Sweet Soy Sauce? Curious about Dukkah? The answers to these plus a variety of fantastic recipes are combined in a new prize-winning cookbook and, as it says on the cover: “Sharing never tasted so good.”

Company’s Coming Publishing and Jean Pare are well known for their best-selling line of dependable, inexpensive cookbooks that are readily found in stores throughout Canada. Small Plates for Sharing is the first of a new series from Company’s Coming called Practical Gourmet. While more sophisticated than its predecessors, these recipes provide the signature ease of preparation and reliability. It’s a great new book, so good that it  won the Gold Medal in the English Cookbook Category of the Canadian Culinary Book Awards.

Small Plates for Sharing begins at the beginning – with recipes for appetizers, hors d’oeuvres, antipasto, great little ideas to start a meal or for entertaining. Each recipe is clearly written in both metric and Imperial measure, the directions are easy to follow and ingredients are readily available in most areas. Any ingredient that might need an explanation is explained, any instructions that need further clarification are provided, and there is a Nutrient Analysis with each recipe. Ideas for recipe presentation and a variety of helpful tips are all a part of the book, and each recipe has a wonderful full-colour photo on the page opposite the recipe. It’s hard to go wrong.

Many of the recipes in Small Plates for Sharing can be prepared ahead of time to make life easier for the host. It’s divided into eight chapters, each with a descriptive name so you can choose accordingly. It begins with Beds and Pillows – a strange name for a chapter. but it relates to canape beds of bread, pastry, crepes, mushroom caps, and makes perfect sense. Little Bowls are next, and these include dips, tiny bowls of gazpacho, soup, custard or risotto, a tasty teaser at the beginning of a meal. Maverick Morsels are delicious bites of little treats like Peanut Noodle Cakes, or Margarita Chicken Lollipops.

On The Green provides tasty toppings to all sorts of leafy and vegetable greens, Chili Squid on Peas and Peppers, for instance, or Praline Pecans, Beets and Blue Cheese on Baby Greens. The photos tell the whole story and make the recipes very clear.

Rolled Up and Tucked In is self-explanatory, a chapter devoted to wrapped or filled delicacies, and is followed by Skewered, with recipes for Pork Souvlaki with Red Pepper Yogurt, or Chicken Saltimbocca Spikes, among others.

Small and Sweet is great for people who really want dessert but insist on “just a bite”. The recipes in this chapter are “petite yet powerful dessert temptations”, leading to the last of the eight chapters, Simply Sophisticated, “Ordinary foods dressed to the nines”, like Braised Hoisin Spareribs, or Strawberry Salsa with Goat Cheese and Melba Toast. And if this last dish sounds strange, the photo is mouth-watering.

There’s a Glossary at the back of Small Plates for Sharing to explain some of the terms that might need a little help, and menu suggestions to help match the flavours (and dishes) in a meal together to get maximum taste. There are some Libations to begin the book, drinks that are as colourful and tempting as the recipes. Laurie Stempfle and her team have put together a wonderful new cookbook, the photography is exquisite and, most importantly, the recipes taste great.

Silver Medal Winner fo Canadian Food Culture at the Canadian Culinary Book Awards 2009

Apples to Oysters: A Food Lover’s Tour of Canadian Farms
Written by Margaret Webb (Penguin Group Canada, Toronto)
Reviewed by Nancy Hinton

What a refreshing change from the parade of 30-minute meal solutions and chef cookbooks this little gem proved to be!  A genuine piece of Canadian food writing that I highly recommend, Apples to Oysters packs a lot between the covers. Besides being entertaining and informative, it’s a travel tale to make food lovers salivate, a slide show of portraits that touches the spirit and stirs national pride.

On a mission to uncover the finest edible treasures from coast to coast, Margaret Webb takes us to meet and eat with some of Canada’s most inspiring and innovative food artisans.  She gets us excited about the ‘real’ food they are producing, but shines the spotlight most on the people. The eleven stories get close up and personal, describing their day to day struggles and victories.  Weaved into the engaging and often humorous narrative is also a sobering look at our food system.

The main characters are bright lights, ‘salt of the earth’ trail blazers making a break from the dominant industrial agriculture model, shunning chemicals and embracing sustainable ways.  Immersed in their world, we are made aware of many important issues, including the detrimental effects of agri-business on taste, nutrition and the environment.  In following them and feasting on their offerings, Webb not only finds new, unique quality to shout about, but she rediscovers the old, ‘electric’ taste of food at its source and the farm culture of her childhood, encouraging the reader to want to bridge that gap too.

Starting with Johnny Flynn and his famous PEI oysters, she leads us on to dulse and periwinkles in NB, then to Duncan Bates’ eco-friendly scallop operation in Nova Scotia, and off to Newfoundland to learn of a promising cod project in with Jennifer Caines and ‘the Codfather’. On the prairies, we visit a pig farm in Manitoba, where we sympathize with Ian who is raising pigs the old fashioned way in the in the land of Big Pork.  We are introduced to the tasty, cancer fighting (and other) benefits of Cecil’s roasted flax in Saskatchewan, as well as a number of other courageous farmers across the country going organic, even in the Yukon (Heidi Marion and Garret Gillespie)!.  In BC, Ambrosia apples are on the menu; in Niagara, its Henry of Pelham wines.  And in Quebec, we accompany Frederic on Île aux Grues in his efforts to make his Tomme de Grosse Île cheese using the milk of Brown Swiss cows.

The best thing about this book is its call to herald the farmer, who is sadly, the most neglected (and underpaid) part of our modern food chain.  It is a most relevant message since so many Canadians now live urban lifestyles, disconnected from the land, unaware of the magic and the mundane behind their groceries. As Webb states, “Poor farmers, poor food, poor us.”  For our own good, we ought to care more about the kind of farmer highlighted in this book.  Only multinationals, chemical and seed companies benefit from industrial agriculture.  However, she largely lets their stories take us there, keeping it a pleasure ride, more than a lecture in food politics.  We can’t help but appreciate that it is their work that is the hopeful part of our food system; simply meeting them leaves the reader hungry and enlightened.

Webb is obviously having fun here, too. Her writing is bubbly and intimate, always earnest, and contagiously passionate, making for an enjoyable read.  And for the inevitable appetite that growls along the way, there is a smattering of home-style, delicious recipes throughout to match.

In show casing their contributions to our culinary landscape, Webb makes an important one of her own.  Every Canadian should read this book to learn more about their food, and the local possibilities out there, to want to celebrate and support these heroes, all while eating and living better.

The aroma of holiday baking always puts me in the mood for the festive season.  Recipes from The Complete Canadian Living Baking Book are on my list to help get spirits high. This new baking compendium, designed for Canadian home kitchens, provides the perfect recipe for successful baking this holiday season.

Elizabeth Baird and the Canadian Living Test Kitchen staff received the Silver medal in the English Cookbook Category of this year’s Canadian Culinary Book Awards for this new must have cookbook. With seven comprehensive chapters and over 300 colour photos of step by step procedures and recipes for year round baking, you can’t help but get inspired to do some holiday baking! The photo of the Snowflake Forest Wreath, a decoration made with made with gingerbread dough, is on my to-do list and would look perfect hanging in any home this holiday season.

This book contains all the essentials of home baking- the ingredients, equipment and techniques. There are many helpful hints and suggestions for variations on the tested until perfect recipes. You will find recipes and everything you need to know for making perfect cakes, cookies, pies, yeasts breads, spoon desserts and more in this new volume. I particularly like this cookbook because it reflects our diverse Canadian baking traditions and has been compiled and tested using ingredients which are readily available in our marketplace.

The recipes also include nutrition information. Although, I am not sure that I want to know how many calories were in those Stilton and Walnut Biscuits I just ate! They were absolutely delish and one of the recipes from the book I am adding to my holiday repertoire.

This cookbook is the consummate collection of baking recipes and an incredible reference for both novice and well-seasoned Canadian home bakers. It would make a great present this holiday season. I have purchased a copy for one of the people on my gift list because it answers the question, “Mom do you have a good recipe for a chocolate birthday cake”!

Printed and bound in Canada, the book retails for $34.95 and is worth every penny!

Many thanks go to Laura Berman of Green Fuse Photography for being our photographer for the event and generously allowing us to post the photos here.

• Dana-McCauley

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  Dana McCauley

• BarbaraBarnes

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  Barbara Barnes

• AnitaStewart

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• AnitaStewart-large

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  Anita Stewart

• AmyProulx

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  Dr. Amy Proulx

Gold Medal Winner - Best Cookbook French Language Category

Ricardo: Parce qu’on a tous de la visite… (Les Éditions La Presse, Montréal
Written by Ricardo
Reviewed by Amy Proulx

Félicitations Ricardo, pour ton lauréat or, et ton succès avec ton livre « Ricardo : Parce qu’on a tous de la visite… ».  Congratulations Ricardo !  Your new book is fabulous, well deserving of its gold award for best French Language Cookbook in the Cusine Canada Canada 2009 book awards.

C’est pas mal rare que je rie et rigole en lisant un livre de recettes.  Ricardo a écrit ses recettes en savant ce que les jeunes d’aujourd’hui (comme moi) sont en train de découvrir – les vrais mets, les bon mets ne sont pas difficile à faire, donc amusons-nous bien ensemble.  Et il faut en partager entre amis, même les retardataires, les gars désorganisés qui ne font pas la vaisselle, le boss, et la belle-mère.  La pendule a changé la direction, nous nous éloignons des « cerises en caoutchouc », et nous retournons en masse vers les joies de la table, et une sensibilité pour les mets saines, simples, et sophistiquées.  Ce livre sera bien utilisé pendant toutes circonstances, surtout pendant tous mes prochains repas ensembles.

With delightful humour, Ricardo has written this upbeat, youthful book with a simple message in mind: good food is easy to make, and best when shared, so get on with it!  Even if you’ve invited the habitual late comers, the boss, the mother-in-law, or the messy guys who leave chip crumbs in the sofa, it’s really all about time shared, stories told, and memories made.  With simple, sophisticated recipes, this book, available in English under the title, Ricardo: Meals for Every Occasion, will definitely be used for all those occasions.

For an in-depth conversation with Ricardo about his book, check out Gremolata’s interview.
______________________

Written by Amy Proulx

Photo -  ©Les Éditions La Presse, Montréal, utilisée avec permission

2009 Canadian Culinary Book Awards Gold Winner - Canadian Food Culture Category

Anita Stewart’s Canada (HarperCollins, 2009)
Written by Anita Stewart
Reviewed by Karl Wells

Anita Stewart’s Canada documents an extraordinary culinary journey across Canada. It is an impressive book because its voice is that of someone who demonstrates a deep interest in Canadian food culture. The book’s attractive cover, featuring buttery brioche slathered with blackcurrant preserve, belies the breadth and depth of the book’s rich content. Stewart’s description of ice fishing in Gimli, Manitoba is riveting as she tells of fishing on a frozen lake covered in drifting snow at minus 25 degrees Celsius. She uses that frigid setting to launch an account of Canadian fishing history, accurately pointing out that it was Newfoundland cod that the first Europeans sought, not “furs to clothe the fashionistas of the day.”

The book is slightly different in that it is divided by some less conventional food categories, i.e. Corn, Beans & Squash, Potatoes, Fruit & Nuts et cetera. However, Stewart begins each section by beautifully describing the importance of each food grouping in Canadian cuisine. In the Fruit & Nuts section she writes of going on a berry picking expedition with her mom in their 1959 Pontiac, “It was like we were going on an edible treasure hunt with no particular destination. We might get waylaid by a row of elderberries hanging seductively on the other side of a watery ditch in Proton Township, or by a hedgerow of chokeberries that we’d pick quickly…”

Real Canadians

What I particularly liked about Anita Stewart’s Canada and what I thought gave this volume such credibility, as a work of food journalism, was the many references to real Canadians. Stewart traveled the length and breadth of Canada and met with individual farmers, fishermen, cooks and characters. They told her in their own words about the food and cooking of their region. And those words describe the cuisine of our country.

There was Manitoba ice fisherman David Olsen, of Icelandic heritage, with a penchant for pan-fried pickerel, Dorothy Grove of Waterloo County Ontario, a Mennonite waffle maker extraordinaire, and John and Flossie MacDonald of Prince Edward Island, blueberry aficionados who shared a recipe for Island Blueberry Buckle, a recipe, by the way, that worked perfectly. In fact, all the recipes I tried from Anita Stewart’s Canada came out well, but I would have expected no less from the author the National Post describes as the “Wonder Woman of Canadian Cuisine.”

Photo by Karl Wells.

Cooking demonstration

The Canadian Culinary Book Awards promise lots of excitement on Friday, November 6th. But once the speeches are over and the reception food gobbled, things really start cooking. Literally.

We have a baker’s dozen of celebrity chefs lined up at the cooking stage. Some of Canada’s best known culinary stars will be sharing their secret ingredients while chef students from Liaison College, Georgian College, Stratford Chefs School and George Brown College prepare a signature dish.

As if that wasn’t enough? At each cooking presentation, six lucky people will win a place at “Canada’s Dinner Table.” The prize? Savouring the plated meal.

Want to know who’s cooking what? We’ve posted the schedule below. Want a copy? Print this: Celebrity Author Cooking Schedule

Friday, November 6

4 p.m.
Celebrity Author Anita Stewart with student chefs from Liaison College
Ginger-Spiced Pork Dumplings (Gyoza) with Chili Dipping Sauce
Karen’s Späetzle
Shortlisted Author of: Anita Stewart’s Canada

5 p.m.
Celebrity Author Laurie Stempfle with student chefs from Liaison College
Candied Chicken Sticks
Dukkah Beef Skewers with Wine Reduction
Shrimp with Horseradish Beet Coulis
Shortlisted Author of: Small Plates for Sharing

6 p.m.
Celebrity Authors Richard Bizier & Roch Nadeau with student chefs from Liaison College
Crispy Feta Rolls, Turkish Style
Shortlisted Authors of: Répertoire des fromages du Québec

7 p.m.
Celebrity Author Jérôme Ferrer with student chefs from Liaison College
Lobster Oil, Asparagus Pesto
Shortlisted Author of: Les secrets des sauces

Saturday, November 7

11 a.m.
Celebrity Author Jean-Paul Grappe with student chefs from Georgian College
Moose Heart Sautéed in Pink Cider and Apple Brandy
Shortlisted Author of: Gibier à poil et à plume

12 p.m.
Celebrity Author Margaret Webb with student chefs from Georgian College
Sprouts Smoothie
Shortlisted Author of: Apples to Oysters

1 p.m.
Celebrity Author Micheline Mongrain with student chefs from Georgian College
Country Breakfast
Author of: Eastern Townships Traditional Cooking

2 p.m.
Celebrity Author Margaret Webb with student chefs from Stratford Chefs School
The Perfect Diamond-Grilled Strip Loin Steak
Shortlisted Author of: Apples to Oysters

3 p.m.
Celebrity Author Elizabeth Driver with student chefs from Stratford Chefs School
Curry Soup
Author of: Culinary Landmarks

4 p.m.
Celebrity Author Naomi Duguid with student chefs from Stratford Chefs School
Kazakh Hand-Pulled Noodles in Chicken Broth, with Soy-Vinegar Sauce
Shortlisted Author of : Beyond the Great Wall

Sunday, November 8

12 p.m.
Celebrity Author Elizabeth Baird with student chefs from George Brown Chef School
Cheddar and Onion Galette
Shortlisted Author of: Complete Canadian Living Baking Book

1 p.m.
Celebrity Author Rose Murray with student chefs from George Brown Chef School
New World Coq au Vin
Shortlisted Author of: A Taste of Canada: A Culinary Journey

3 p.m.

Celebrity Author Elizabeth Baird with student chefs from George Brown Chef School
Cheddar and Onion Galette
Shortlisted Author of: Complete Canadian Living Baking Book

Photo © ginnerobot. Published under a Creative Commons License.

Massimo Marcone, on the hunt for the elusive Kopi Luwak coffee.

I finally got around to reading Massimo Marcone’s book, In Bad Taste?, awarded last year’s Honourable Mention for Special Interest Books at the Canada Culinary Book Awards. Massimo is a friend and colleague of mine, so he has been cajoling me to read the book since it came out. Browsing through the public library, it finally got the best of me, and I read it this past long weekend.

What fun! It’s a whirlwind tour of weird food, fascinating places, and the futuristic world of the scientific lab. And it is equally a portrait of an interesting scientist, who perfectly fits the description of “Mr. Magoo meets Indiana Jones”. If I may, I’ll also add “walking-talking encyclopedia” to the description.

But beyond the book, what I find interesting is the real desire to read and understand the science behind food. Certainly we’ve all heard Michael Pollan’s diatribes against the food science industrial complex. But everyone who lights a stove, whips eggs in a copper bowl, makes jam, or kneads bread is somehow interacting with that science. Food science isn’t all  about ingredients that no one can pronounce. It should be about understanding, preserving and enhancing the goodness of food that is already within.

For me, it was intriguing to see two other 2008 Cuisine Canada award winning books with science at the core of their messages. The gold winning French language book, La chimie des desserts: tout comprendre pour mieux les réussir by Christina Blais and Ricardo is a wonderful primer on how to enhance the quality of desserts. The chemistry behind the cooking lets you make the best of each new recipe, and improve on your old favorites.  Blais, a professor of food science at l’Université de Montréal is a common face in the French-Canadian media, sharing her wealth of scientific knowledge to help people cook better.  Ricardo puts his sense of style in the recipes, and completes this winning combination.

Another gold winner, Ultimate Foods for Ultimate Health by Liz Pearson and Mairlyn Smith, used the most up-to-date knowledge in nutrition science, paired with delicious recipes, to help make healthy cooking delicious.  Pearson brings her expertise in nutrition and dietetics to interpret the myriad of nutrition theories and facts, while Smith, a professional home economist, packs the nutrition into dishes we can enjoy guilt free.

Food science, when brought into the public eye by skilled authors, can make our lives healthier, safer, tastier, and more interesting. Whether you are a fan or not, food science touches everything we eat. It’s important to become informed, and our authoritative Canadian authors are helping greatly in this regard.

___________________________
Written by Dr. Amy Proulx, who just happens to be the “laughing”, yet “level headed” Amy in Massimo’s book.  I still remember vividly the Moroccan Police chasing me around the airport.

Photo © Massimo Marcone, used with permission.

(GUELPH, On) Can you judge a book by the cover? The expert panel for Cuisine Canada and the University of Guelph’s Canadian Culinary Book Awards wouldn’t dream of it. To select the best of more than 50 entries, some of Canada’s top food professionals cracked the spine, rolled up their sleeves, tested recipes and read every word. The winners will be announced November 6, 2009, on opening day of the Royal Agricultural Winter Fair, in Toronto. This year’s finalists illustrate the range and expertise of Canadian food writers.

Short-listed in the English Cookbook Category are:

• The Complete Canadian Living Baking Book: The Essentials of Home Baking by Elizabeth Baird (Transcontinental Books, Montreal)
• Fat: An Appreciation of a Misunderstood Ingredient, with Recipes by Jennifer McLagan (McClelland & Stewart Ltd., Toronto)
• Small Plates for Sharing, Laurie Stempfle, Ed. (Company’s Coming Publishing Limited, Edmonton).

Short-listed in the English Special Interest Category, books about food, but not cookbooks, are:

• Beyond the Great Wall: Recipes and Travels in the Other China by Jeffrey Alford and Naomi Duguid (Random House Canada, Toronto)
• Bottomfeeder: How to Eat Ethically in a World of Vanishing Seafood by Taras Grescoe (HarperCollins Publishers Ltd, Toronto).

Three books were short-listed for the Canadian Food Culture Category, books that best illustrate Canada’s rich culinary heritage and food culture:

• Anita Stewart’s Canada by Anita Stewart (HarperCollins Publishers Ltd, Toronto)
• Apples to Oysters: A Food Lover’s Tour of Canadian Farms by Margaret Webb (Penguin Group Canada, Toronto)
• A Taste of Canada: A Culinary Journey by Rose Murray (Whitecap Books Ltd., North Vancouver).

The contest is also open to Canadian French-language books. Short-listed in the French Cookbook Category are:

• Gibier à poil et à plume: découper, apprêter et cuisiner par Jean-Paul Grappe (Les Éditions de l’Homme, Montréal)
• Ricardo : parce qu’on a tous de la visite: cuisiner en toutes circonstances par Ricardo (Les Éditions La Presse, Montréal)
• Les secrets des sauces révélés par Jérôme Ferrer (Les Éditions La Presse, Montréal).

Short-listed the French Special Interest Category, books about food but not cookbooks are:

• • Manger, Un jeu d’enfant par Guylaine Guèvremont and Marie-Claude Lortie (Les Éditions La Presse, Montréal)
• Répertoire des fromages du Québec, Édition augmentée by Richard Bizier and Roch Nadeau (Les Éditions du Trécarré-Groupe Librex inc., Montréal)
• Les vins du nouveau monde, Volume 2, by Jacques Orhon, (Les Éditions de l’Homme, Montréal).

In the French Canadian Food Culture Category is:

• Québec capitale gastronomique by Anne L Desjardins (Les Éditions La Presse, Montréal).

For more than 140 years, the University of Guelph has contributed to Canadian cuisine in its programs in agriculture, food science, hospitality and tourism management and is the home of one of Canada’s best cookbook collections.

The Canadian Culinary Book awards are sponsored by: Agricultural Adaptation Council, CanolaInfo, Royal Agricultural Winter Fair, Harbinger Communications, Chicken Farmers of Canada, Parmalat Canada, The Ancaster Old Mill, Beef Information Centre, Niagara College Teaching Winery, The Fairmont Royal York, Niagara College, Borealis Grille & Bar, George Brown College, Georgian College, Liaison College, Rootham Gourmet Preserves, Stratford Chefs School and Ontario Farm Fresh Marketing Association.

For more information about the awards visit the Canadian Culinary Book Awards page on the University of Guelph website.